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Browning Tactical Hunter Hunt Master Flashlight: Great of Whitetail Deer Hunting

Filed Under : Articles,Ohio Hunting Stories by bestdeer

Oct.19,2011

Making your way through the dark deer woods just got a heck of a lot easier thanks to Browning's 300 lumen Hunt Master Flashlight — the brightest light in Browning's Tactical Hunter line.

"Browning?" uttered my hunting buddy as we trudged away from the truck toward our deer stands. He had just asked me who made the exceptionally bright flashlight I had been wielding back at the truck and, apparently, my answer seemed suspicious. Rightfully so, I suppose, given that the vast majority associate Browning with shotguns and rifles more readily than flashlights. Over the past few years, the Buckmark has found its way onto all types of outdoor gear, and the Hunt Master is evidence that Browning's venture into the highly competitive arena of high-performance flashlights has proven to be a successful move.

Most people shopping for a serious hunting flashlight are going to be drawn to the Hunt Master for its 300 lumen output, which is precisely what attracted me to the light during my initial search.

The Hunt Master’s large head houses three bright, unbreakable LED bulbs rated for 100,000 hours of use.

No other pocket flashlight under $100 boasts such an output, and the few pocket lights that do reach the 300 lumen mark are priced well out of reach of most hunters, except for those who rely on such a light for their livelihood. With the Hunt Master Flashlight, Browning has essentially taken guide quality gear and made it accessible to the average hunter.

Other than the obvious draw (again, the 300 lumen max output), the Hunt Master has some really cool features advantageous to hunters and other serious outdoor types. First is the adjustable focus. The adjustable head of the Hunt Master allows you to fine-tune the projected beam. The beam can be constricted for focusing on solitary subjects up to 150 yards away, or it can be widened for broader area coverage. At the widest setting, the beam is four times as wide as it is when fully constricted and has a 60 yard maximum range.

Since CR123A batteries aren't cheap, I like being able to select the level of light intensity the flashlight emits using the unit's High-Low switch. Instead of the typical end-cap switch found on other lights in Browning's Tactical Hunter lineup, the switch on the Hunt Master is located near the head of the light. Pressing the switch once turns on the flashlight, which defaults to the highest setting. Press the switch a second time to activate the low setting, which equates to 100 lumens or 30% of the high setting. Pressing the High-Low switch a third time turns the flashlight off.

Run time is another impressive feature of the Hunt Master. At the 300 lumen maximum output the Hunt Master has a 3.5 hour run time. It has an 8 hour run time on the low power setting. Again, while it's nice to have when needed, I don't always require that whopping 300 lumen output, so I try to conserve battery life whenever possible.

As for construction, the body of the Hunt Master is made of lightweight aluminum. At 6.6 inches, the Hunt Master is smaller than a 2D flashlight, and it fits comfortably in the palm of my hand; yet, due to the larger head design, the Hunt Master feels a little bulkier in my pocket than my other pocket lights. The larger head is necessary, though, to house the light's three bright LED bulbs. These high-powered LEDs are rated for 100,000 hours of use and are unbreakable (under normal use, of course), as is the adjustable lens. As mentioned previously, the Hunt Master is powered by three CR123A batteries, which are included.

All in all, the Hunt Master has performed well throughout its first season in the deer woods, and I'm still astounded each time I press the switch to release that 300 lumen beam of light, especially knowing the source is a lightweight, pocket-sized flashlight. And while none of my shots this year required that I track an animal at night, the Hunt Master sure made those long walks in and out the dark deer woods a heck of a lot easier.

Whitetail Deer Hunting Bowhunting Basics

Filed Under : Articles,Ohio Hunting Stories by bestdeer

If you have decided that you are up to the challenge of bowhunting, here is a guide to everything you need to know.

What is it about pursuing wild animals with a bow that really gets my adrenaline rushing? I'm not sure I can answer that question with a concrete explanation. There is just something mysterious about the inner drive that keeps bowhunters hungry for that next hunt, as if life depended on it. Whether I got this intractable passion through heredity or conditioning, one thing is for certain, I have the fever!

Though the passion may not be explainable, there are some obvious reasons as to why a hunter may decide to take up archery hunting. As a teenager my father introduced me to hunting deer and turkey. Within a few years I realized that I could no longer stand the overwhelming desire for the seasons to roll back around. It was then that I discovered that if I take up bowhunting I could pursue big game for nearly one third of the year. Anything that could put me in the woods that often was definitely worth looking into. Generous hunting seasons were my main motive to take up the sport. If you like a challenge and enjoy the outdoors, bowhunting has just what you need. Most serious bow hunters are competitive in nature and thrive on the chore of outwitting their prey on its own turf. Bowhunting is not for everyone, but if you can handle some frustration and you are willing to invest some time and energy towards achieving a tremendously rewarding task, then you may have found your niche.

Once you have decided that you are up to the challenge of bowhunting, it is time to invest in some equipment. The amount of money you will need to spend will greatly depend on your personal preference and personality. Some archers keep things very simple and still achieve great success while others find the need to have the most updated and sophisticated equipment no matter the cost. Most bowhunters find a happy medium somewhere in between. There are items that are essential to having success and others that are basically just bells and whistles. Assuming you are just getting into the sport, lets cover some basics that you will require.

The bow: There are so many quality bows to choose from, the decision will really just come down to personal preference. There are five characteristics that archers look for when deciding what is right for them. What is top priority to you may not be top priority to the next hunter. These characteristics are:

Quality
Speed
Accuracy
Forgiveness
Aesthetics

Quality - Is the bow going to endure the abuse often associated with bowhunting? Lets face it, the tactics necessary to take game with a bow does not allow the hunter to pamper his weapon. A bow hunter will be traveling through thick cover, climbing to elevated tree stands and often putting the bow through potentially rigorous conditions. Are the manufacturers reputable and do they stand behind their product? Is the bow quiet, yet efficient? Ask these questions to fellow bowhunters. The best quality bows will have proven themselves.

Speed - To many archers this is a top priority. To others it is just one more variable to consider. There is no question that speed has many advantages. A blistering arrow flies with less trajectory for longer distance allowing the hunter more room for error in judging distance. However, speed does come with a price. Some degree of accuracy and consistency is often sacrificed to achieve greater velocity.

Accuracy – Plain and simple, accuracy is critical. When a hunter feels confident in his shot placement, success usually follows. To be accurate it takes a well tuned bow and a great deal of practice. To achieve accuracy, a hunter needs a bow that feels comfortable and fits properly. Before deciding on a particular bow, I would encourage any bowhunter to become familiar with the many styles and types available.

Forgiveness – Of the five characteristics listed, this may be the most beneficial to a less experienced bowhunter. Forgiveness is the measure of the amount of error in the archers form, grip, anchor and release a bow will allow when achieving an accurate shot. As a general rule, bows with a longer brace height of close to 8 inches will have more forgiveness than those with shorter brace heights. Brace height is the distance from the bow handle to the string of an undrawn bow. Larger brace height comes with the price of a degree of speed loss, though many bows with large brace heights today are still producing remarkable speeds.

Aesthetics - It would be naive to say that looks do not matter to most hunters. Some will claim it is not important, and to some it is really low on the priority list. However, break out a bow in a crowd of bowhunters and the first thing commented on will be its looks.

The best advise I can give it to look at all five characteristics and make sure the bow you choose is a good mixture of each. Usually one of these characteristics will stand out a little more than the others and that is where personal preference comes in to play.

Once you have chosen a bow with the characteristic that you desire, it is time to decide on the essential accessories required for your set up. These are:

Arrow Rest
Sights
Stabilizer
Wrist strap

Arrow Rest - The rest is the accessory that supports the arrow during the shot process. There are many types of rests to choose from. Personal preference will come into play when choosing a good rest. Through the year, many changes have been made to make rests more practical and efficient for the bowhunter. There are rests available that secure the arrow, eliminating the chance that the arrow could fall off the rest at a critical moment. To many bowhunters this feature is invaluable. Another feature on some of the latest designed rests are the ability for the support arm of the rest to actually drop out of the way as the string is released, eliminating all contact with the arrow. By doing this, the possibilities of unwanted interference and noise made from arrow friction with the rest are a thing of the past. My recommendations are to find a rest that is easy to adjust while tuning and accommodates what you feel will be most beneficial for your hunting style.

Sights – Sights act as an aiming point of reference on your target to aid you in making an accurate shot. Multiple sight pins allow a hunter to set a reference at several yardages, eliminating the need to aim high or low on a target after judging the distance of the shot. Many hunters are shooting high speed bows that produce very flat trajectory and prefer to use just a single pin. With a little practice you may find that this helps to keep things simple. Some states allow the use of electronically lighted pins which could come in handy at dusk and dawn. Check the game laws in the areas you will be hunting to see if this option is available to you. Decide what you want out of your sight before making a purchase.

Stabilizer - This is a weighted extension that protrudes from the front of the bow to help the hunter with balanced form while shooting. Most stabilizers are efficient so there is no need to get real technical when choosing one. I suggest that you find one that also serves the purpose of eliminating unwanted vibration allowing a smoother, quieter shot. Less recoil means less noise and less hand shock.

Wrist Strap - Any wrist strap that is comfortable to you will do the job. It is simply there to assure that the bow will not leave your hand during recoil. The last thing you will want to see is your bow plummeting to the ground from an elevated tree stand.

Other items you may want to consider for your bow are:

String and limb silencers
String loop (for use with a release aide)
Arrow quiver

Arrows
The biggest decision you will have to make about arrow selection is whether to use aluminum or carbon arrows. Aluminum arrows have been a proven asset to bowhunters for many years. They provide stable and consistent flight with a surplus of penetration. Aluminum arrows tend to be heavier than carbons which teamed with speed can produce unmatched penetration. Carbons on the other hand are very durable and dependable in maintaining straightness. Because they are lighter and often more narrow, they offer the bowhunter faster arrow speed and flatter trajectory. Most arrow manufacturers have an arrow shaft selection chart to aid you in choosing the right arrow for your set up. Another minor decision to make will be choosing between feather or plastic veins to stabilize the arrow in flight. The average fletching is around 4 inches in length but can be larger or smaller depending if you are looking for more stability or speed.

Now for the business end of the arrow! After practicing with field points and maintaining a respectable grouping out to at least 20 yards, you will become more confident in making a clean shot on an animal. One of the most important variables in making a clean kill will be the amount of penetration the arrow gets and damage done to the vital organs as the arrow passes through. A top quality broadhead will be a determining factor in getting this job done effectively. Do not cut corners in choosing a broadhead.

Fixed blade heads and mechanical heads are the two main types of broadheads being used by the majority of bowhunters. A strong case could be made for choosing either style of broadhead, and you will find advocates of both throughout the bowhunting population. Fixed blade heads have no moving parts and tend to be very durable and reliable. Mechanical heads have floating blades that open on impact and tend to be easily transitioned from field points with little or no difference in flight. Try both and see what works for you. Confidence in your broadhead will go a long way in feeling good about your shot.

Optional Equipment for Hunting
Once you have your bow and arrows ready to go, there are some optional equipment to consider to make your hunts successful. I find that for bowhunting a lightweight, easy to set up and take down treestand is almost a necessity. Climbing treestands work great if there are trees available with little or no limbs up to twenty feet from the base. Hang-on treestands work just about anywhere there is a tree and are quite handy teamed with the right steps or ladder.

Ground blinds seem to be becoming increasingly popular with bowhunters. Most serious bowhunters have a good quality blind in their arsenal for those times when treestands are not a good option. If you plan to hunt turkeys with your bow, a good blind will be invaluable.

Camouflage clothing for all weather conditions is a must. Bow seasons across North America tend to be quite liberal in length. Count on hunting in just about any and all types of weather conditions. Staying comfortable will keep you in the field. Success in bowhunting is usually teamed with long hours of relentless pursuit. You have to be out there to be successful. A nice roomy backpack to hold additional clothing and food will aid you in preparing for weather changes and temperature fluctuations.

Long hours in boots that are too hot in early season will lead to shortened hunts and undesirable excess odor. On the flip side, nothing will send a hunter back to camp quicker than cold feet. There are too many quality footwear products available these days for a hunter to allow this to happen.

As a bowhunter, you will find that hours can be spent looking through catalogues and surfing the Internet looking at all of the latest gadgets and equipment available to make your hunt more enjoyable. Nothing beats trial and error and seeking advice from fellow bowhunters to find what all you will feel is necessary for your hunting experiences.

Now that you have the equipment necessary to start hunting, how can you put yourself within bow range of your game? Obviously, your strategy and the degree of difficulty will vary from animal-to-animal. There are two key ingredients to harvesting an animal with a bow and arrow. These are preparation and fortune. Preparation begins with knowing your equipment and your personal limitations. It is not necessary to mimic the skills of Robin Hood in order to make a clean shot on your prey. What it takes is substantial practice and recognition of your effective range. I have found that 3-D targets are one of the best ways to sharpen these skills. Most 3-D targets come with an outline of the vital section of a life size animal. Visualize different scenarios as you draw back and focus on the target. Nothing builds confidence more than walking up to a 3D target with 3 or 4 well placed arrows protruding from the boiler room. Don't forget to practice from various elevations. Shot placement can change with changing angles. Keep working yourself farther and farther from the target until you start noticing marginal shot placement consistency. Once you establish this marginal distance, work your way back towards the target until you find yourself drilling the kill zone with tight arrow groups. Make note of this distance and discipline yourself not to take shots at live animals beyond this distance. You have established your "effective range."

Once you become comfortable with your shooting ability, it is time to focus on how to put yourself within effective range of a live animal. Whitetail deer are the most popular game animal bowhunted in North America and thought by many to be the most challenging. Bowhunting expert Chuck Adams claims that if you can take a whitetail deer with a bow then you can feel confident that you have the skills to take any huntible game animal in North America. There are an endless number of resources available such as magazines, books, and videos pertaining to hunting deer. One topic that always surfaces in achieving success is "scouting." Many deer hunters will make their first trip into the woods on opening day of rifle season and harvest a deer. Not to take away from the challenge of rifle hunting, but that kind of fortune just does not happen often for bowhunters. To get within range of deer on a consistent basis takes a respectable amount of scouting. Its is critical to understand the purpose of deer movement in your area and gain knowledge of the routes they will take to get from bedding areas to feeding areas and vise versa. The movements will change as the season progresses due to changes in the availability of preferred food sources. Changes will also occur with even more severity as the mating or "rutting" period occurs. Catching a deer in a vulnerable state of mind is a big key to success. The best way to accomplish this is to not educate the deer. A deer sensing "pressure" is very difficult to catch off guard. Once you establish good stand sites, stay away from the areas you are intending to hunt. The most important key to fooling a whitetail is not allowing him to get a whiff of human scent. Deer rely heavily on their nose as their main source of defense. Staying undetected in close range can be quite a task. There are many scent eliminating products available and they certainly help, but nothing beats paying attention to wind direction. If you keep the wind direction in your favor you will drastically improve you odds of arrowing a deer. I mentioned "fortune" as the other key factor along with preparation in being successful on a particular hunt. No matter how much time and effort you put in to your hunt, your fate is ultimately controlled by the instincts and choices the animal will make on its own. You never know when opportunity will knock, so be prepared to answer when it does.

Although deer are the most popular game animal pursued by bowhunters, you will find that there are a number of other challenging creatures out there to chase with a stick and string. The deer hunting tips pertaining to scouting and pressure will go along ways in hunting just about all game with a few modifications. I can't emphasize enough how important it is not to educate any animal to the fact that they are being hunted if you plan on getting within bow range. Familiarize yourself with various game and remember there is always more to learn about the sport. This ongoing lessons are what keeps my mind drifting away throughout the year anticipating trying something new while bowhunting. Are you looking for a challenge with countless satisfactions and rewards? If so, take up bowhunting.

Beat the Crowds for Better Whitetail Deer Hunting

Filed Under : Articles,Ohio Hunting Stories by bestdeer

How to hunt heavily pressured areas and still bring home a whitetail deer.


When hunting public ground, look for hard-to-reach areas or small isolated tracts of land as these areas are often neglected by other hunters.

One of the most satisfying aspects of whitetail deer hunting is spending hours in the field carefully patterning the movements of whitetail deer, then using that knowledge to ambush your quarry as it goes about its daily routine of feeding and traveling when the season opens.

Unfortunately, most of the whitetail deer we pursue today are heavily pressured by hunters. Unless you hunt during archery season or on large tracts of privately owned, heavily controlled land during modern firearms seasons, you'll probably find it tough to enjoy this pleasant experience.

This shouldn't ruin your whitetail deer hunting, however. It simply changes the nature of the challenge facing you. How well you cope with this pressure element in today's hunting equation often determines whether you have enough venison to fill your freezer or have to head to the grocery store's meat department.

Go Deep

One of the first things to think about is the option of avoiding the most heavily pounded areas. You may think without a large tract of private land available that you are forced to go to areas thick with other whitetail hunters, but if you really sit back and analyze the situation, a different story reveals itself. The vast majority of these whitetail hunters are in areas within a quarter to half mile of a road or parking area. On big tracts of federal or state lands, you often can get beyond most hunters by simply starting earlier and walking in a bit farther. Study topographic maps and find areas where no roads or trails are present, then look for features that would make them prime deer habitat.

You could also pay to hunting at a deer hunting preserve or deer hunting ranch. These are known for their trophy whitetail bucks and contain mass amounts of land and advnture. A hunting preserve or hunting ranch can ranch is sure to provide that trophy whitetail buck you are looking for if you find a quality hunting preserve or hunting ranch that knows what they are doing.

There are other alternatives as well. Ride a mountain bike to reach lightly pressured areas. Float down a river in a canoe or johnboat, or motor across a lake to a parcel of public land that is hard to get to from a vehicle. Hunt islands, which can be magnets for deer when hunting pressure intensifies. Make sure the place you whitetail hunt is on public property, though, or obtain permission in advance from the landowner.

Scout for Sign

Check out such potential areas before the season to see if there are tracks, trails, rubs and/or other signs of deer use. Then try to determine the animals' patterns of movement. The nice thing about these locations is that the bucks are not as apt to change their routines much after hunting season arrives because they rarely see people.

Isolated Tracts

Besides seeking out hard-to-reach areas, also consider hunting isolated, cut-off tracts of public land that are so small they tend to get neglected by other hunters.

Unpressured bucks are less apt to change their routines after hunting season arrives because they rarely see people.

Public areas are usually big spreads with plenty of parking areas and good access. But often there are also a few small parcels that are cut off from the main acreage. If there's no easy parking, these isolated patches of habitat — sometimes just 50 or 75 acres — may hold several deer, and if it's really overlooked, possibly a nice buck.

Dense cover or steep rugged terrain are the keys. When bucks feel the pressure of just a few hours of hunting, they immediately move to places where they can escape the pressure from humans.

Look for a rugged area with jumbled cover where an old buck might feel safe. This can mean thick brush along a creek bottom or in a swamp, hollows full of vines and blowdowns, a bench just below a mountain ridge, knolls and hills overlooking feeding areas or a patch of mountain laurel or dense stand of conifers in an otherwise open, mature hardwood forest. Strip Down

It's tough, but taking these pressured whitetail bucks is definitely an achievable goal. One way is to strip down to the necessities and get mobile. Leave your tree stand or blind at home. Bucks in this situation tend to be so attuned to their habitat you'll probably spook the animal just by setting up. Rely on camouflage, immobility and patience instead of equipment. Begin hunting the minute you enter the woods. You may have to relearn how to walk soundlessly, recognize places to blend in and sit perfectly still.

Slip in to the downwind edge of a mature buck's hideout or the thinly outlined trails leading to it, and sit back against a big tree or rock outcropping. Or hunker down in the branches of a blowdown. Don't alter or brush it up in any way. Silence is key. Wear camouflage clothing except for the required blaze orange and put on a face mask. Wait patiently and watch intently. The buck you're after may get up to stretch, urinate and nibble on honeysuckle, or perhaps he'll slink in after a night's feeding.

Consider Drives

Hunting Pressured Whitetail Deer If you're hunting with a partner or partners and it's legal, you might also consider organizing drives through pockets of thick cover. Focus on small pieces of dense cover so inconspicuous other hunters ignore them. Post standers on the side seams where deer might curl out, and have the drivers on the edges move slightly ahead of those in the middle to herd the bucks inward. Also station one or two hunters behind the drivers to get a shot at a buck that lays low and tries to escape out the back.

Silent drives are best. A crosswind is ideal, so bucks don't scent walkers or standers. If that's not possible, set up with the wind blowing toward the posted hunters, using the scent of the drivers to help push the deer.

Split-Second Shooting Required

Regardless of how you hunt these deer — stalking, driving, whatever — it's a good idea to go to a rifle range and practice getting on target fast. You won't have much time when you surprise a buck in dense out-of-the-way cover. A split-second shot is required.

Many hunters I know prefer a scoped rifle in this situation, setting the variable on low power. If there's not time to get the animal cleanly in the crosshairs, they don't fire. Others prefer hunting with open sights or a shotgun with buckshot.

Use whatever you're most comfortable shooting, but be practiced enough you can make a good shot when you see the right deer. Move at a moderate walk on the edges of and through bedding cover, but make as little noise as possible. You need to analyze trophy quality and age quickly and be prepared to shoot immediately.

When you do bag one of these difficult, elusive animals, you'll find the feeling of accomplishment runs much deeper than when you score on a private area where there's less challenge involved. That makes the extra effort worthwhile.

The Art of Concealment Whitetail Deer Hunting

Filed Under : Articles,Ohio Hunting Stories by bestdeer

Concealment, though it is often confused with camouflage is really much more. You cannot simply go out and buy a Ghillie Suit or some other high quality camouflage and expect to remain concealed. Concealment is the skill or art of keeping from being seen, found, discovered or observed; camouflage is just one step in concealment.

For this article we will use the example of a whitetail deer hunt, we will discuss how to keep concealed in different types of hunts, and how to place yourself in a position to get a good shot. There are typically 3 different types of deer hunting. Stationary hunting typically from a tree stand or blind is a method often used for bow hunting. The "Scope and Stalk" method also known as the "Sniper" Method is used by bow hunters and rifle hunters alike. The "drive" or walking hunt is typically used by larger hunting parties using rifles. Since it is not typically the objective of the driving hunt to remain camouflaged or concealed, we will not discuss the "drive" in this article.

We have already touched briefly on camouflage, and will return to it again later. When practicing concealment consider all of the senses your target has available, sight, scent and hearing are the most powerful ones.

With the wind in their favor whitetail deer can smell a human well over a mile away. There are "scent blockers" that may help, but the best result will always come when you position yourself downwind of the whitetail deer. This means walking into the wind, stalking into the wind and positioning your tree-stand such that your most likely shooting opportunity will be upwind.

Exercising a little common sense with regards to wind direction has now brought you well within the one mile zone of your prey. The next two challenges are really equally important; How do you beat the whitetail deer’s sight and hearing. It may be easier than you think, everything in nature moves and makes noise, so "if you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em". Be as quiet as you can, but don’t be afraid to make a little noise. Just make the right type of noise at the right time. Listen for a wind gust blowing up through the tree tops and move when the background noise is near its peak. Watch how a deer moves, a couple steps and a pause, a few more steps and a pause. Constant evenly paced foot steps will give you away like a marching band. Be aware of your surrounding and make your noises appear natural.

Now we will return to camouflage. When you apply what you have learned so far with the proper application of camouflage you will be a master at concealment. When choosing camouflage, consider the two challenges you are up against with a whitetail deer’s sense of sight. The first is color and pattern, choose camouflage pattern that blends well with the surroundings. The second challenge is your profile or silhouette, if your hunting terrain and vegetation allow, a Ghillie Suit is a great way to diffuse or soften your profile.

Now that we are all experts in concealment, lets make a practical application of our new skill and some other helpful hunting knowledge. Remember, nature is lazy, water flows down hill, electricity takes the path of least resistance and have you ever seen a cow trail the goes up the steepest side of a hill? No. Keep this in mind when you are hunting.

When hunting from a tree stand, the goal is to hunt whitetail deer that are completely un-aware of your presence. Deer in transition between night feeding and morning bedding or between daytime bedding and evening feeding are great targets. They are not spooked, typically a combination of walking and standing until they get to the feeding grounds. When you are in a tree-stand or in a blind you cannot move so location is critical. It is a good idea to scout out several locations that may be effective in different wind.

Remember nature is lazy, much like water deer will follow low lying areas as long as possible. Position yourself at a natural bottle-neck in the terrain, where two or more couleesconverge or where a stand of trees is narrowed by hills, water, agricultural development, etc. Another option is to place yourself at the edge of the cover near the feeding area. Deer will often walk to the edge of the cover and stand for minutes at a time before they are comfortable enough to break cover and feed. This can provide some exceptional opportunities.

The Sniper method is different from hunting in a tree stand in a couple ways, typical Sniper hunting is performed during the day when the deer are not moving. The objecting is to conceal yourself in a position that offers a good viewing range, "scope" or "glass" the surrounding hills especially upwind. If you have not spotted any deer, back down the hill into some low lying gully or coulee, slowly and quietly make your way to a spot you have already scoped and are confident there are no deer. This will put you in a position where you will not disturb any un-scoped hunting ground while offering you a new vantage point to glass your new surroundings. When you have spotted a deer, chances are that it is out of range, this is where the stalk comes into play. Determine where you need to be to have a good shot and plan a route to get there that will keep you out of sight. Keep in mind all of the tips discussed earlier about movement and natural sounding noise and begin the stalk.

Happy hunting.

Deer Hunting Ranch or Deer Hunting Preserve: 4 Tips

Filed Under : Articles,Ohio Hunting Stories by bestdeer

If you and your friends have decided to stay at a deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve or deer hunting preserve, you will discover that your entire hunt would be more enjoyable. These ranches are operated by true professionals, people that appreciate the outdoors and share a love for deer hunting. Typically, you would have the opportunity to use the services of a guide from the ranch or hunt on your own. Just remember that while a deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve such as this is designed to make your hunting trip exceptional every organization is different so you need to make a wise choice.

Because the services offered which includes environment of the ranch, permit systems, accommodations, meals, clothing, equipment, price and more are all unique to each deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve; it would serve you best to start by determining what you need and want from the trip. Based on that information you would begin your search to find the one deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve that coordinates with your goals best.

Obviously, a number of considerations go along with choosing the right deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve but no matter your ultimate goal certain things stand out more than others do. For this reason, we have provided you with four tips to make the selection process of a deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve easier and more successful.

1. Safety Record – One of the most important considerations is choosing a deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve with a solid safety record. To determine this, you can contact the State Wildlife Department. This organization is responsible for giving the ranch their licensing so they would have information on any regulation and safety issues.

2. Personal Preference – It is also important that you choose a deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve that meets your needs. For instance, if couples were going on the trip and only the men deer hunt, then finding a ranch that offers other activities and a comfortable environment for non-hunters would be essential. The ranch should be well-organized and set up to provide you and everyone in your group with everything needed.

3. Services – The deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve should also provide the type and level of services you find most important. As an example, if you prefer to hunt via horseback, then you want a ranch that offers guided hunts and the horses. If you prefer to stay in a cabin near the designated hunt site, then it would be important to find a ranch that can offer that type of accommodation as well as food, clothing and transportation needed.

4. Price – Probably one of the most important considerations when selecting a deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preserve with today's economy is price. For this reason, it would be worth comparing a number of possibilities to make sure you get numerous amenities and outstanding service but within your set budget.

Spending a little bit of time researching different deer hunting ranch or deer hunting preservees using these four considerations as a priority, followed by some of the less important elements will help you choose the best place to stay. With that the entire hunting trip would be a more enjoyable experience.

Preparing Your Bow for Whitetail Deer Hunting Season!

Filed Under : Articles,Guided Whitetail Trophy Deer Hunting by bestdeer

You draw, then press the trigger on the release. The arrow flys just under the bucks belly or harmlessly over its back. This is a scenerio that happens to every bow hunter eventually. But there are things that you can do to limit this to being the exception rather than the rule. Hunting with a properly tuned bow is one of those things!

Getting your bow ready for bow season should be more than pulling it out of the closet and drawing it back to see if everything feels OK! When you venture into the woods you need to know your equipment will perform. Gaining that knowledge should start before you shoot your first arrow.

If you have access to a bow press you should inspect the Cam and shafts before doing anything else. Plastic bushings and shims wear over time so before the season opens you should check for nicks and worn areas. If any damage is found replace. Also check the cam(s) for excess lateral movement when on the axle shaft.

Check for nicks in the cam itself where the string is in contact with the cam. A nicked cam can damage your string, potentially causing injury. So make sure you check the cam for damage. The nicks can easily be fixed with a small file or even sand paper. Clean out all excess wax that has built up in the string grooves. Don't be tempted to use an oil as lubricant. Oil will only attract and hold grim. Use any of the graphite based ones. Put a small amount on the axle before you put your bow back together.

After putting your bow back together, check to see that your bows cams are in tune. This illustrates one of the advantages of single cam bows. Since single cam bows only have one cam, it is not possible for the cams to get out of tune. If one of your cams is lagging slightly you bow will not shoot tight groups. The way to check this is to slowly pull the bow back and have someone watch to make sure both cams roll over at the same time. Often the lower cam is the first to cause problems. This is because the lower cam takes more abuse. Not from shooting but from handling. Most people lower their bows to the ground with a string; therefore the lower cam is subject to getting damage much more easily than the top cam. Also this often cause more dirt and grim on the lower cam which can also cause it to loose its tune. So if your bows cams are out of tune visually inspect the cams for nicks and dirt.

Now that your bow limbs and cams are OK next check the riser and attachments. Make sure that all screws and nuts are tights. If you are using a prong type arrow rest that has a protective coating on the prongs to silence the arrow, you can remove all the shrink tubing from last year. Use fine sand paper and lightly sand the steel prongs. If you shoot carbon shafts you can very lightly sand your arrows as well to remove any nicks or imperfections in the shafts. Clean all moving parts of the rest with alcohol and lubricate with a graphite type lubricant where applicable.

Your sight should be checked to make sure that there are no loose parts that will rattle or come loose. You should check it over for cracks in the plastic or broken pins. The fiber optic tips common on todays pins are subject to getting cracked or even coming loose. Now is the time to replace any defective pins.

There is not much to cable guard rods and the small plastic slides, you need to check to make sure that it moves smoothly and is free of dust and dirt. If the plastic part is worn now is a good time to replace it. You might also want to consider upgrading to the newer Teflon slides. They wear much more slowly and travel more smoothly on the rod. If there are any nicks or scratches you can sand the rod as well. I would stay away from the roller type slides. This is a part where simpler is better. Rollers may work well, but the way I look at it the rollers just have more moving parts. So that is something else that can break or go wrong.

Next take a look at the string. First look at its serving. This is the wrap that goes around the string where the arrow is nocked. Is it coming untied? Is it worn excessively where the arrow nock goes. Look for fraying ends. If there is a problem with the server, you can replace it without also replacing the string. Also look for cuts in strands of the main string. The cables should be inspected. The new strings on the market will last longer than the old strings but they don't last forever. String stretch on a two-cam bow cause the cams to be out of time. This will cause erratic arrow flight. You can add a twist to the string to compensate for the stretch.

Once you have made a complete checked of your equipment your job of tuning will be much easier. If you cams are out of tune you should bottom out both limbs and then turn out the limb bolt in equal amounts. This will give you equal tiller setting most bows are set up from the factory to shoot at the same setting. If you have replaced your string or server you will need to make sure that you arrow is roughly centered with the rest and that the sight pin is lined up over top of your arrow and that the arrow is at 90 degree angle to the rest. You are now ready to paper fling a few arrows and make sight pin adjustments if needed.

With a properly tuned bow you will be a more confident shot and that will make you a better hunter.

How to Stay Calm While Taking Your Shot at a Whitetail Deer Hunting

Filed Under : Articles,Guided Whitetail Trophy Deer Hunting by bestdeer

By: Joshua Argall

Possibly the greatest factor in hitting your mark is the state of mind you're in when you take the shot.

Everyone's heard of "buck fever":

You've been sitting in your stand for a few hours and haven't seen much. You hear twigs break and leaves rustle and crunch. It sounds louder than the squirrels you heard frolicking before. You start to wonder what it could be. Your heart starts to beat faster. Suddenly a large whitetail buck trots into view. A rush of energy runs through your body. It's a bit too far and the shot isn't quite good enough. Eagerly you wait on the whitetail buck to come closer. By now your heart is beating out of your chest, your hands are trembling, and your knees are knocking into one another. After what felt like hours of whitetail deer hunting, the big ol' buck is finally within range. You lock your sights on him and squeeze the trigger. What a rush!

Unfortunately, that same rush may also mean a slight jerk when you pull the trigger or a tremble that makes it difficult to line up your sights. Your ability to stay calm may be the difference between hit or miss and ruining or savioring your whitetail deer hunting experience. Over the years I've learned the only way to maintain your composure at that crucial moment is practice.

Most of us aren't lucky enough to experience the opportunity to shoot a Whitetail Deer Hunting frequently enough that it becomes so routine we're able to control our natural reactions. We all can however, take the time to imagine the experience enough to prepare ourselves for the actual encounter. It's very important to really visualize the entire setting. Close your eyes and imagine your exact view from the location you'd be whitetail deer hunting from. See the trees or the grass and leaves moving in the wind. Feel the warmth of the sun on your face or the chill of the breeze against your skin. Smell the autumn leaves. Hear the birds calling all around you. Now, imagine that whitetail deer coming into view. See the rack, broad chest, and white tail. Stare into his dark black eyes. Visualize how calm you can be setting your sights on him, squeezing the trigger and dropping him right on the spot.

It's very important the visualization be as real as can possibly be. Let your mind go and really get into it. Set aside time to practice frequently. Make sure to practice in a place you will not be disturbed where you can apply your full attention without interruption. Be sure to breathe deep and evenly.

If you practice enough, you will gain confidence and remain calm when the time comes to put yourself to the test while whitetail deer hunting. It may seem a bit silly or make you feel uncomfortable, but don't be discouraged. These techniques have been used for thousands of years by people in all forms of sport and in many situations. I personally set aside 15 minutes twice everyday to practice relaxation and visualization. Since I began using these techniques I've seen the accuracy and consistence of my shots greatly increase. I know you will to!

How to Measure According to Whitetail Deer Hunting Boone and Crockett Rules

Filed Under : Articles,Guided Whitetail Trophy Deer Hunting by bestdeer

By Mike Guerin
There are two methods for scoring your trophy whitetail buck, Boone and Crockett and BTR are the two competing methods. Here the B&C method for typical bucks will be explained. So lets get right to it.

You will need a 1/4 inch steel tape to measure the antlers. This is mandated by the rules, no other instrument can be used to measure the antlers except a flexible steel cable can be used to measure the points and main beams. Antlers or measured to the nearest 1/8 of an inch. Also no offical measurements can be taken until a mandatory 60 day drying period has elapsed.

All points are measured for the tip of the point to where it meets the main beam and must be 1 inch long to be counted.
(See below)

First, measure the lenght of each main beam. Start at the base and measure along the outside of the beam to the tip.

Now measure the bucks inside spread perpendicular to the skull. Using the proper angle find the bucks greatest spread. Note: Maximum credit for spread is equal to the length of the longest main beam.

The bucks points or numbered G1-G7 on each beam. Where the G1 is the brow tines etc. Measure and record the length of each point.

Now measure the smallest circumference between the base and the browe tine. This is known as H1. H2 is the smallest circumference between the G1 and G2. If there are no brow tines then H1 and H2 are the smallest measurement between base and G2. The last circumference is taken halfway between tip of mainbeam and last point if G4 doesn't exist.

Now add up all the measurements (inside spread, both main beam lenghts, tine lengths, and the circumferences) and this is the gross score. To get the final score you must subtract from the gross score the difference between the different measurements. For example if the left beam is 20 inches and the right beam is 18 inches then you must subtract 2 inches from the gross. Do this for the circ. and point length measurments as well. This will give you the buck net score.

A couple of mistakes that people often make. Here is one example. Suppose you are scoring a six point buck. You still get credit for all 4 circ. measurements. The last two on each side will be the same… measured half way between the last point and the tip.

Another mistake is would be counting tines past H7 on bucks with lots and lots of points. Wish I could have that problem. Another mistake that comes up periodically is counting small kickers towards the gross score of the deer before subtracting. On typical deer you not only have to subtract those odd points but you never get credit for them to start with so the gross score does not reflect them and then to get the net you must subtract them again. So it isn't like they just never grew they are actually a detriment to the score, both net and gross.

Thats it. Now get to measuring.

An Excuse to Return: Whitetail Deer Hunting

Filed Under : Articles,Guided Whitetail Trophy Deer Hunting by bestdeer

An Excuse to Return
written by Ray Sasser

The buck was wide, probably 22 inches of inside spread.

There's an old East Texas saying that's used to explain why you don't plan on traveling to a particular place. Let's say a friend has suggested that you pack up and head for New Orleans with him. You might scratch your head and stall for time while trying to word your negative response as delicately as possible.

"I never lost anything in New Orleans," is what you'd say. The implication is that, since you never lost anything in New Orleans (certainly nothing you'd care to get back), you have no reason to go there.

My wife and daughter went to Germany one summer. They flew for 11 hours, one way, on an airplane. They paid $200 one night to stay in a hotel with no air conditioning. They saw lots of real old buildings and still talk about how bad the traffic was. They had a great time and they want me to go back with them, but I never lost anything in Germany.

I lost something in the pine forests whilte hunting in texas one time. It was during a misting rain. I was texas hunting at the invitation of a major timber company. The afternoon before, I'd shot the best whitetail deer I'd ever seen up until that time, a mature 20-inch-wide 8-pointer, and I was feeling pretty good.

"He was so far away, I couldn't tell much about him," said Chuck. "I just know he was wide."

Now I was sitting in a tree stand overlooking an oat patch so green that it almost appeared to be neon. A doe trotted out of the thick woods on the far side of the food plot and frisked about in that coy style that guarantees you're about to see a buck.

A brute of a deep-woods buck with swollen
neck, sticky black hocks, and thick
antlers.

I saw him 30 seconds after the whitetail buck first appeared. He was bigger than the whitetail deer I'd shot the day before while hunting in texas — a brute of a deep-woods buck with a swollen neck, sticky black hocks, and thick antlers. I watched him chase the doe in and out of that oat patch for 30 minutes. The doe wasn't much interested in losing her suitor, although she almost lost him once, when I actually shouldered the rifle and counted coup through the scope before talking myself out of the shot. At one point, the deer was within 50 yards of my stand.

It was mid-November, though, and the good deer hunting down south had not even begun so hunting in texas was yet to go into full swing. I was reluctant to spend my only two buck tags within a 12-hour period and effectively end my hunting season before it was good and started. So I lost that whitetail buck there in the thick woods — just let him walk away to spread his genes and become, with any luck, the best buck some other hunter had ever shot.

A lot of people think New York City is a mighty fine place. To me , New York seems like the kind of mess you'd have if you took the populations of Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, San Antonio and Austin and stacked them into a place about the size of Waco, except the surrounding countryside is not nearly as interesting. I never lost anything in New York.

I lost something in the rolling plains of West Texas one crisp November morning while hunting in texas after a brilliant sun had melted the frost that glittered like diamonds at first light. Chuck Dalchau had spotted a whitetail buck with a doe through his spotting scope and had driven me to the spot where the pair had entered a brushy draw.

"He was so far away, I couldn't tell much about him," said Chuck. "I just know he was wide."

That's a good place to start so I eased into the cover, encouraged by a light wind in my face. A game trail penetrated the brush and I stayed on it, moving as slowly and as quietly as possible. I stopped once to glass four does on the opposite side of the draw. The whitetail buck wasn't with them.

I must not have moved as quietly as I thought because a doe suddenly stood up from where she'd been bedded in a tangle of briars about 75 yards across a side ravine. I still had the wind in my favor, but the doe had heard me. She was giving me the wide-eyed stare when the buck stood up beside her.

My first impulse was to shoot and shoot quickly! Chuck was right. The whitetail buck was wide, probably 22 inches of inside spread. His antlers were extremely thick. Through the scope, I could see the steamy vapor from his breath in the cold morning air. Pumped full of testosterone, he gave me a hard look, as if challenging me to take his girlfriend away.

Unfortunately, he had only eight points and they weren't particularly long. The weather was perfect, I had two more days to hunt, and I had my heart set on a deer with 10 points or more. I lost that 8-pointer when he followed his girlfriend into a clump of thick brush. Passing up the shot was a decision I've regretted many times since.

I saw a ballet once in Dallas. Dressed up in coat and tie, I watched athletic men and women pirouette across a stage. They were dancing The Nutcracker, which, I understand, does not classify as a fancy ballet. I'm glad I went but I'm not likely to see another ballet unless someone I know is dancing. I never lost anything at the ballet.

I lost something on the Lohn Valley Ranch near Brady one crisp November morning while texas hunting. Not long after the sun spilled color across the green stubble of winter wheatfield, I saw the deer step out of a mesquite thicket on the far side of the field.

He had the deep body and bulky neck of a mature whitetail buck. At 250 yards, my 8-power binoculars confirmed what I already suspected. The buck carried a great rack with 10 long points accented by three kickers. Alas, I'd shot another good buck two days earlier and was hunting does this morning. For the next 20 minutes, I watched this deer as he fed on the wheat and interacted with several other whitetail bucks and does in the field. He had a small puncture wound on the left side of his neck, an obvious momento of a recent dominance battle.

The deer wasn't really doing anything other than going about the business of being a dominant buck on a glorious November morning. Because I had no intention of shooting him, I could fully appreciate the graceful subtleties of his movements. On the wheatfield stage, he unwittingly danced for 20 minutes, the performance better than any ballet I can imagine. Then he disappeared with nary a curtain call.

Occasionally, some friends of mine will jet off to Mexico where they lie in the sun on sandy beaches, drink exotic liquids served in glasses festooned with toy umbrellas, and barter with roving vendors over the price of useless trinkets. I've visiting a few Mexican resort cities but I never lost anything there.

I did lose something in deep South Texas, once while texas hunting. It was a misty January morning. David Davis and I were huddled in an open tower blind, trying to protect binoculars and scopes from the moisture when a major buck strolled out and began feeding beside a handful of does and smaller bucks.

Through nobody's fault but mine, I lost that wonderful buck in the brushy motte of southern Texas.

In retrospect, I should have grabbed my rifle and shot the deer the instant he appeared, but David and I were both playing it cool. We studied the buck first through binoculars, then through the powerful spotting scope. His beams swooped as they headed toward their forward curve even with the buck's nose. Even the broken tine did little to detract from the reality that we were glassing a great whitetail. Three kicker points added character to a rack that didn't really need much help. We smiled at each other and whispered excitedly about how good this buck looked.

As the deer moved farther away, I finally laid my rifle across the blind and tracked him with the scope, passing up two marginal shots, waiting for the perfect broadside, standing chance I was confident would present itself. The scope 8-power tunnel vision kept me from realizing that the deer was about to exit the clearing. Finally, he did just that and we never saw him again.

Through nobody's fault but mine, I lost that wonderful buck in the brushy motte of southern Texas, a texas hunting experience I will never forget. Over the years, I've lost a dozen such deer in similar places while texas hunting. Most of the time, I made a conscious decision not to shoot. Or maybe it was a subconscious decision to lose the buck. That way, there's always an excuse to return.

Deer Hunting Preserves the Deer Herds

Filed Under : Articles,Guided Whitetail Trophy Deer Hunting by bestdeer

The survival of any species in the wild is an ongoing fight to meet the basic necessities of daily life. Whitetail deer hunting preserves and contributes heavily to the survival of deer herds in that by reducing the overall population there is a rise in available food for those remaining whitetail Deer. Because of this, the general physical health of those surviving whitetail Deer is improved and the resistance to disease is increased as a result. The implications of a healthy whitetail Deer herd impacts future generations of the species, in that offspring are born in better condition with less inherited physical conditions.

Whitetail deer herds usually have a very difficult experience in obtaining enough food in the Winter months, and are forced to move closer to civilized communities in their search. The more overpopulated a herd becomes the greater the grazing area, and instead of a whitetail deer herd with 50 members who are well fed, the result is a whitetail deer herd with 100 members who are diseased and starving.The realization of urban sprawl is that tens of thousands of deer are killed annually by automobile traffic, as well as many motorists. By thinning the deer herd more food is available, and keeps the herd in a location far removed from the danger of human interaction.

In nature, the preservation of deer herds is accomplished in large part due to the feeding requirements of predators, such as Wolves and Bears. Especially in the Eastern United States, the diminishing numbers of these predators due to increased human population has given rise to remarkable increases in the Deer population. In many Eastern locations, special annual hunts by marksmen are authorized to permanently remove deer from suburban communities.

Even in remote areas of the Western United States, the timber and mining industries have claimed resources that were once prime feeding grounds for whitetail deer herds. Again, this drives the Deer closer to civilization in search of food. Western wildfires destroy millions of acres yearly further reducing available food for Deer.

In the deep South, Hurricanes destroy natural whitetail deer habitat. In the Midwest, droughts, floods and Tornado's are the culprit for Deer starvation. There is no geographic region in the Continental United States that can support an unchecked population of Deer. The hunting regulations in place still have many farmers fighting not only the elements, but whitetail deer herds grazing on their fields, and impeding their ability to feed the Nation.

Other solutions to controling deer herds are the rise of deer hunting ranches or deer hunting preserves. These facilities fully control the whitetail deer herd from birth to death in most cases. There are of course those he feel the deer hunting ranches or deer hunting preserves are unethical, however in many cases these facilities are top notch and let the deer live natural long and healthier lives than nature most likely would allow.

In the final analysis, no reasonable individual would ever desire to kill a magnificent animal without valid cause. Deer hunting preserves the Deer herd by removing those starving and sickly animals that pose a threat to the survival of the species.